| Christian Dior (January 21, 1905 –
October 23, 1957), was an influential French fashion
designer, probably best known as the founder of one of the
world's top fashion houses Dior. He was born in Granville,
Normandy, a seaside town off the coast of France. Dior
flagship boutiques are found in Paris, Milan, Rome, London,
New York, Beverly Hills, Tokyo, Osaka, Hong Kong, Boston,
Honolulu, San Francisco, São Paulo, Seoul, Madrid, Miami,
Barcelona, New Delhi, and Shanghai.
Early life
Acceding to his parents' wishes, Dior attended the École des
Sciences Politiques from 1920 to 1925. The family, whose
fortune was derived from the manufacture of fertilizer, had
hopes he would become a diplomat, but Dior only wished to be
involved in the arts. After leaving school he received money
from his father so that in 1928 he could open a small art
gallery, where he sold art by the likes of Pablo Picasso and
Max Jacob. After a family financial disaster that resulted
in his father losing his business, Dior was forced to close
the gallery. From 1938 he worked with Robert Piguet and
later joined the fashion house where he and Pierre Balmain
were the primary designers. In 1945 he went into business
for himself, backed by Marcel Boussac, the cotton-fabric
magnate.
The "New Look"
The actual name of the line was Corolle (roughly petal in
French), but the phrase New Look was coined for it by Carmel
Snow, the editor-in-chief of Harper's Bazaar. Dior's designs
were more voluptuous than the boxy, fabric-conserving shapes
of the recent World War II styles, influenced by the rations
on fabric. He was a master at creating shapes and
silhouettes; Dior is quoted as saying "I have designed
flower women." His look employed fabrics lined predominantly
with percale, boned, bustier-style bodices, hip padding,
wasp-waisted corsets and petticoats that made his dresses
flare out from the waist, giving his models a very
curvaceous form. The hem of the skirt was very flattering on
the calves and ankles, creating a beautiful silhouette.
Initially, women protested because his designs covered up
their legs, which they had been unused to because of the
previous limitations on fabric. There was also some backlash
to Dior's designs form due to the amount of fabrics used in
a single dress or suit--during one photo shoot in a Paris
market, the models were attacked by female vendors over the
profligacy of their dresses--but opposition ceased as the
wartime shortages ended. The New Look revolutionized women's
dress and reestablished Paris as the center of the fashion
world after World War II
Personal life
Dior died at the health spa town Montecatini, Italy. Some
reports say that he died of a heart attack after choking on
a fish bone. Time magazine's obituary stated that he died of
a heart attack after playing a game of cards. However, the
Paris socialite and Dior acquaintance Alexis von Rosenberg,
Baron de Rédé stated in his memoirs that contemporary rumor
had it that the fashion designer succumbed to a heart attack
after a strenuous sexual encounter.
As Cathy Horyn wrote in The New York Times about the
designer, "Many men had slept with Dior, but few had wanted
to become his lover." Horyn quotes Francine du Plessix Gray
as saying that "there is the myth that his boyfriends only
slept once with Dior because he was plain and not that
sexually appealing."His companion at the time of his death
was the Algerian-born singer Jacques Benita (born 1930). In
the early 1950s his companion was Jacques Tiffeau
(1929-1988), a hustler who eventually became a fashion
designer and winner of a Coty Award in 1960.
In popular culture
In 2003, Christian Dior Company donated to the Aaliyah
Memorial Fund. In 2006, singer Morrissey released a song
titled "Christian Dior" as a b-side to the single "In the
Future When All's Well." The song uses Dior's life as a
comparison to the songwriter's life, where he seems to
believe both have been wasted perfecting a single thing
(Dior with fashion, Morrissey with music) and ignored all
the good things life had to offer. |